This delightful property was cheaper and twice the size of the modernised fisherman's hut where we'd stayed the week before in popular but crowded Moskenesaya. A picture window looked out onto sea and hills. The hiking was strenuous, spectacular and mostly unfrequented. We saw no-one on walks up Haveren, Storknubben and Haven, one other party on Svarttinden, and about a hundred on Hoven. The grass coastal track north from Steira makes a pleasant stroll on a rest day.

We couldn't get the main heating working downstairs, and there were no instructions for it, but it didn't matter because we could use the two fan heaters supplied.