Between the old Jewish Quarter and the riverside alleys of Regola, Naive Melody is at the centre at what was the heart of medieval Rome. It was in spotless condition when we arrived, and if you were inclined to stay in, rather than explore the neighbourhood, there’s a 70” TV with Netflix to keep you busy. No one lives in the flat full time, but this isn’t necessarily a problem as Giulia, your host, is a delight – really helpful and forthcoming. Home truths: *The entrance to the building is a little hard to find, but you'll get precise instructions from Giulia. *Don't try to water the plants – they're artificial. *Guests 3 and 4 will be accommodated in the sofa bed in the living room. *There's a restaurant downstairs, so expect to hear some noise into the early hours. *The bedroom curtains here don't fully block out the sunlight. You might want to pack an eye mask.