With so many unique features to talk about, it's hard to know where to start with Cristóbal. The A-frame wooden-beamed ceilings create a double-height effect that's bright and airy, and the views of the Tejo River, Praça das Cebolas, Praça do Comércio and the Sé really do take your breath away. We were also impressed by the mix of worldly antique furniture and colourful contemporary paintings dotted around the place. It's worth noting, though, as it's set over two floors – with some pretty precarious stairs – it's not ideal for small children or less mobile elderly guests. Home truths: *To reach the fifth floor, you'll need to climb a total of 110 steps *There are some signs of general wear and tear on sofas, scuff marks on walls, scratches on the wooden floor, and loose switches – those looking for something pristinely maintained should look elsewhere *As there's no home manual, you may have to ask how to use the appliances *The bed linen and mattresses throughout is not as luxurious as we would want it to be *At a just 18mbps, the wifi connection is at a passable rate, but it's not nearly as fast or reliable as we would ideally like it to be *Tall guests beware – the showers extend to a maximum of 185cm *You won't find a welcome hamper or basic essentials here